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I thought this dish terrific, but my rather more conservative guest was happier with grandmother's roast lamb, cooked until the surface had gone dark brown and crackly, served with a jellied gravy and chunky oven-roasted potato chips.

For traditionalists, there is moussaka and village salad, not to mention authentic tzatziki made with house-strained yoghurt and deseeded, chopped cucumber correctly salted and squeezed.

READ MORE: *Cafe Chat: Franziska's little sister opens in the CBD *Restaurant review: Floriditas in Wellington *Restaurant review: Bastardo, Wellington The muted green paint scheme is a subtle nod to the decoration of the traditional mainland Greek tavern (as opposed to the blue of the Greek islands), and Moyses' dark wooden floor has been stripped back to a trendy Scandinavian shade of blonde, perhaps to match the expensive Hans Wegner replica chairs, dating from this Danish designer's Ming Chinese-inspired period in the late 1940s.

Besides being exemplars of East-West fusion, they're comfortable enough to see you through an extended ouzo drinking session. But while the dancing mixture does flow here, Oikos is not the place for a drunken oik to ask when the plate smashing begins.

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